Smara

Smara is the inland city of the southern provinces, east of Laâyoune in the stony desert of the Saguia el-Hamra. Unlike most towns in the region it was not founded by a colonial power: it grew up in 1869 as a stopping place for caravans, and it remains the region’s most important centre of Saharawi religious and cultural heritage.

Why visit Smara

In 1902 the scholar and religious leader Sheikh Ma al-Aynayn made Smara his capital. He built a fortified zawiya, a religious complex with a mosque and a library of manuscripts that made the town a centre of learning. French troops sacked the city in 1913 and the library was lost. The stone walls of the zawiya still stand in the centre of town and can be visited.

Smara is also a good place to see everyday desert life: camel herders on the outskirts, nomadic tents and the traditional dress of the region. Visitors are rare, so expect curiosity and hospitality in equal measure.

Getting there

Most travellers arrive by road from Laâyoune, a drive of a few hours across open desert. Smara has a small airport with limited domestic service; Laâyoune Hassan I is the nearest airport with regular flights. Coaches link Smara with Laâyoune and Guelmim.

Getting around

The centre is small enough to walk. To reach sites outside town, arrange a driver locally.

Where to stay

Accommodation is limited to a few simple hotels in the centre. Many visitors come for the day from Laâyoune.

Good to know

• Dress modestly. Smara is a conservative, religious town.
• Ask before photographing people, and avoid photographing official buildings and checkpoints.
• Summers inland are much hotter than on the coast; spring and autumn are more comfortable.